Simply Viet Nam!

Basics on Vietnam: bring anti-bacteria hand cream, well-labeled MSM, herbal supplies (shampoo/cond/toothpast), nerves of steel, water-safe pouch for carrying money and credit cards, strong pair of water and bacteria-proof thongs or good pair of shoes, extra toilet paper, humility and much patience.

Simply what you have, Vietnam wants too. You might want a better car, better fridge, better front yard, Vietnamese want better living conditions but what does that mean?  Right now in Vietnam, they live fairly simply and do with what they have. Depending on which part of the country you are in, the moisture can have a tremendous impact on buildings and residences can be made of basic wooden structures.  Because of the humidity, everything gets older quicker, smelling of old moisture and crumbling away or rotting.  During heavy rainfalls washrooms can have a special smell coming up from a possibly clogged sewage system.   Something to consider during your stay on any first floor.

Garbage collection is simplified out here.  It’s thrown out on front pavements waiting to be swept at night when closing then onto the street for the cleaners. So weaving around or better yet, walking in the street is much cleaner and oddly safer.

Most folks reside where they work, so while the front is the business selling anything from local food to hardware to administering a hotel, the back is their living quarters.  You might even spot their sleeping room or a few mattresses laying around.  Being respectful of their space by watching where you step and taking off  your shoes will avoid any unnecessary yelling and evil eyed staring.

While staying in Sapa, northern Vietnam, local hilltribe folks would use the local arena/park behind the wall near the WC as their dumping ground.  As it’s uphill you can imagine what trails downhill when it rains, and yes, it rains heavy so things move along to the touristy area, you got it, mostly downhill. Something to keep in mind, wear good shoes :)

The Vietnamese are simply strong folks, in Hanoi they get up early in the morning, 5am and walk to the lake for some chi-style stretching and exercise. It’s incredible to see, gosh thousands hanging and moving around the lake, walking, talking and mainly focused on their inner health, all pretty much in their 30′s and above and with a good spirit in mind. I loved being with them, I felt part of their life. It’s beautiful to be part of such a silent strong movement. I felt blessed and very comfortable, more comfortable than back in the west, to stretch and do yoga under a tree in the same area. No one is looking to be better really, well not to the western standards, how you dress, how you stretch and it was all so nice.  Of course, I’m not really part of their dynamic, their societal structure but a small one, the outsider, the tourist and they seem pretty fine with it too. Everyone had their own space.

I’ve enjoyed living their way, mostly.  Of course, growing up in the west, I’m used to a different culture and it shows some days having been sick from eating something or walking where I shouldn’t have.  But I’ve enjoyed eating sitting on little plastic kiddy chairs alongside loud vietnamese diners excited about eating with good ol’ friends and throwing their dirty napkins on the ground. I enjoyed the food, the lanterns, the simpler lifestyle, the quieter minds, yes, you can feel it sometimes in the smaller villages.  I’ve enjoyed walking through a sea of motorbikers knowing well I was moving with them like dancing through traffic; carving my way through a school of attentive fishys filtering around me making my way safely to the other side. This life here is intuitive, it’s feeling, it’s paying attention, it’s sensing, you watch and you do. You learn to let go of your frustrations quick. Otherwise it bits you in the butt.  They’ll pick up on any frustrations fast which is really nothing personal, but they might take it that way.  So letting go and moving on is best for everyone one, even if the honking gets to on your nerves.  Oh the honking, I hadn’t touched on that important topic yet.  It’s the singlemost frustrating thing in Vietnam and it will test anyones nerves.  Motorbikers honk just about anytime.   Before they get to an intersection, if they think you might be in the way, if they overtake any vehicle or vice-versa, coming up to school zone, thank goodness!, coming around corners and most upsetting to us, anytime they had a bad day looking to release some frustrations on innocent bystanders, mostly probably tourists and just honking for honking sake.  Glad I was able to be of some assistance!

Local women would set up food stalls on sidewalks offering whatever they made and that’s really something to appreciate.   You see there aren’t many options in Vietnam especially for vegetarians so when someone comes out with pancakes, che (a Viet bubble drink with lotus and black beans, somewhat like we the Vietnamese restaurants have back home), sticky rice with peanuts and various vegan/non-vegan toppings on banana leaf, local tea/coffee, Hoian creme brulee or fresh french baguette with cheese, it’s a treat and many locals flock there too. As a vegetarian the meals can be simply too usual at the restaurants so this adds heaps.

Even though the people have a challenging time dealing with tourists, they do their best.  That is what they are trying to do though it doesn’t seem so at first.  Mostly they ignore you.  But that’s probably from not knowing what to do, or how to deal with you.  So wait, ask, someone will help and if not, it’s not meant to happen and maybe just move on.  But  most folks are helpful, they want to sell their stuff, so sign language and showing numbers and money, even pointing at what you want will do, that’s simple.  It doesn’t have to be complicated, commnication is basic even if you don’t get the language.  It’s fun and we relate at a primal level.

I’ve enjoyed my time in the countryside, Vietnam has the most beautiful country, lush and green in the north and hot humid in the south next to the ocean.  It’s an incredible mix and folks enjoy saying “Hellllllooooo”, nice!

I’ve enjoyed being driven on a motorbike. Again doing what they do and being part of their lifestyle.  It’s incredible, how focused and aware they are, and how much they can carry on their bike, how many of us and how many bags!  That scared me once, the load was a little offbalanced but we managed.  I took back some weight and the driver was lighter on the front end, it’s safer that way!  Iv’e enjoyed riding a bike too, tuning into paying attention vary carefully to everything, like an owl, fully present of all of its surrounding….an awesome focal meditating point.

I’ve enjoyed eating rice again.  I love it, some grains more than others but mostly enjoyed it for its simplicity. Nothing more than eggs and salt to go along with it.  For now I’m skipping the simple mixture of boiled water potatoes and morning glory till my stomach settles after too much hilltribe food :(

I’ve enjoyed talking with them and just listening to them; what they want and what they are saying.  But I didn’t want anything, so it’s been a difficult journey for them to understand. What a westerner not wanting anything?  NOOOO, impossible, maybe later…you’ll buy from me?   Sometimes, many times, I’ve ignored them, especially it’s been too much for me, “Buy from meeeeee!, maybe later, you buy something, pleeeeeease!”.  Yes they are tactful, they are always getting in your space…it doesn’t matter if there is no one else on the street and they are crossing, they will litterally walk in your way so you can notice them.  Incredibly focused with YOU in sight.  They will even stop dead in front of you while chatting away to their new found friend up ahead about something you can’t understand or that couldn’t possibly relate to you, so why stop in front of me?  Well, YOU are the reason, the tourist, so enjoying the moment for what it is, a comedic reaction of an ongoing love/hatred for the rest of the world. Moving on, going around or yet another option after being exhausted by this scene, nudging back put them well back into place.  Yes, little me can be pushy too, subtlety but intently holding MY ground.  Why on earth would they want to piss off tourists, so they move. Not just the young entrepreneurs but old ladys too can be quite pushy as well.  Taunting my back ongoingly in the busiest and stinkiest of fish markets, I had enough and I finally let her know it was enough, pushing her hand off my back, she got it, no words exchanged, none needed.  The easy riders will always find you, but they are easy, their bikes are THE selling feature so they don’t venture far, hehe!  I wonder where they’ve picked up all these tactics, from American TV and movies?  Watch how they work you in malls, coming up to you like a mall assistant offering help and quite knowledgeably showing you the way to find what you’re looking for.  Yes!, at her friend’s stall of course and if that doesn’t work, she’ll show you hers just in case she might have it.  In the smaller towns they were yelling at us, “Help me please? You need something to drink?” I’ve learnt to say no and in many different ways,…no, not buying, no thanks, sorry, i’ve been here long I don’t need, have too much, no space in my bag, no not later, never!, noooooo!!! and laughing, that helps heeps on both sides. The Vietnamese are entrepreneurs, like the west, working at making a better life for themselves. I can appreicate that, I just don’t want so much of those things anymore, thank youuuuu!

While in Sapa, I tried locating two herbs that have been recently found to have healing properties for those with Diabetes 2 and Alzeihmers yet currently still under research.  I spent some time looking for these at the many local medicine shops.  Either I didn’t have the correct name in Vietnamese or they just didn’t stock it.  So hopefully someone else finds them and reports back, would be nice to hear.  Here’s what they say about these…”In Australia and New Zealand, research is continuing on other medicinal plant species. One, Acanthopanax trifoliatus, has shown promising results for improving memory and has potential applications for Alzheimer’s sufferers, and plans are to develop a refreshing herbal tea. Another species, Stephania brachyandra, has shown high anti-type II diabetes and anti-cancer (particularly Melanoma skin cancers) activity and an international patent has been taken out on the activity while research continues. In another groundbreaking move this patent has been transferred back to SIMPA so that all intellectual property is held by the farmers.” from Sapa Essentials

Also, there were 2 essential oils equally difficult to locate, Chua Du and kinh Gioi Nui that help with muscle soarness used in massage and for insect stings.  Perhaps next time I’ll be heading to the local massage therapist and healing baths.

And yet the most surprising find was MSM aloe skin lotion, incredible!  MSM helps with viruses and bacteria and with Aloe Vera repairing properties, this came at a great time after having caught a virus.  I found this at a clothing/cosmetic shop just across the entrance to the bus station for 350,000dong flat, a good deal afterall.  It’s from Forever in the UK and here’s a link Forever MSM & Aloe Vera Lotion

The bus rides weren’t as bas as I heard, but the toilet stories are the same, reeking of much urine unfortunately splashed around by many careful attempts to maneuver around the drivers abrupt driving.  The stretch from Hanoi to Vientiane wasn’t that bad with a new bus, everything went fairly well.

I’ve enjoyed understanding Vietnamese culture again, this time in their home country, how to speak up and how to say nothing.  Well, I can’t stretch myself here, it’s what I’ve enjoyed, simply done, simply said.  I’ve enjoyed much and now it’s time to go.

Maybe in 10 years!

Sorry no photos, simply taken on the beach!

Posted in Travel | Tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , | Leave a comment

Yoga in Pai, Thailand

Yoga - My Favourite :-)

Yoga - My Favourite :-)

Well, it seems that it’s time for the first blog post for Natural Health Australia :-)

I thought I’d start with one of my favourite things in the world – Yoga! I love yoga more than pretty much anything and I think Steph does as well. We recently finished up a month of travelling in Thailand and spent a lot of that time in the Northern province ‘Mae Hong Son’ in the sleepy mountain town of Pai (pronounced more like ‘bye’ in english) I was fully expecting that there would be plenty of yoga on offer in Pai however there are only three places that offer yoga and two of them seem to close down in the low season which is when we were in town… I was really looking for some Mysore style classes as I don’t find talk through classes to be of much benefit anymore. There were no Ashtanga / Mysore style classes being run in Pai so it was time to improvise…

We ended up asking one of the local hatha yoga teachers (Bhud, a lovely Thai lady) if we would be able to use her yoga space to do our own practice in the morning since her classes start at 10AM and we usually do our practice for two hour somewhere between 6 and 9 in the morning. She was more than happy to oblige and we were stoked to have use of the space.

The Yoga Shala

The Yoga Shala

The shala is located at a guesthouse property called P.S. Riverside that is on the outskirts of the town centre. After doing yoga there a day or two we met some cool crew there and decided to stay there to test out there basic bamboo huts for 200 Baht per night (~$6AUD)

P.S. Riverside is a great place to stay. The pros are: cool people, lots of space, quiet and chilled out, nice hosts, use of the yoga shala and the communal kitchen. The cons are really only that the huts have resident geckos and whilst cute, they shit all over the fly netting above your bed and eventually the shit powder filters down onto your bed making for a rather irritating sleeping (or attempting to sleep) experience.

Our Bamboo Hut - With Beautiful Flower

Our Bamboo Hut - With Beautiful Flower

Now we were practicing our own yoga in the mornings and having a great time. There were cushions, yoga mats (which one is not able to source in Pai, everyone says the closest place to get them is Chiang Mai, a local business would do well to stock them I reckon since it’s quite the hippi mecca)

The lady that runs the yoga classes mentioned that she had received some tuition from a person that studied under a woman named Vanda Scaravelli. This woman was a good friend of Jiddu Krishnamurti and came up with a style (or no style) of hatha yoga based on grounding to the earth, breathing fully and letting intuition and gravity do the rest.

Cushions and Mat Bags

Cushions and Mat Bags

I started experimenting with breaking up my ashtanga yoga practice with an improvised style and tried to find out if the gravity idea worked well. I did find it to work very well considering I am very tight in the hamstrings like most men. I was using the wide leg forward bend from ashtanga yoga but not grabbing the toes or legs and just staying in the pose for a very long time and letting gravity pull me down.

The Steps Leading to the Yoga Shala

The Steps Leading to the Yoga Shala

I found that I was able to get much closer to the ground this way and also that I could minimise the usage of my upper body muscles which are often engaged accidentally when doing forward bending. A habit of humans such as myself which robs the practitioner of core strength which is what is really required to progress well with forward bending and any further physical yoga essentially.

Pai is a lovely town even in the low season rain. The mosquitoes can be annoying however you just have to remember the times (dusk and dawn) when they are likely to attack and take preventative measures such as staying indoors or using a repellent spray that (hopefully) doesn’t have too many chemicals in it.

View of the River from the Shala

View of the River from the Shala

If you arrange your visas correctly (2 month visa + 1 month extension and then repeat that) you could quite easily ‘live’ in Thailand for 6 months like quite a few of the people there are doing. If you are willing (or keen!) to shop at the markets and do your own food preparation you could easily get by on $500 USD / month. It really depends on the kind of lifestyle you like to lead I guess.

So when you are travelling and missing your yoga, don’t give up, you may be able to continue your practice in a beautiful setting by exploring and asking the right people.

 

Me in Padmasana

Me in Padmasana

Namaste

Posted in yoga | 2 Comments